Many people ask us about the process and the type of yarn we produce. Worsted is smooth (using combed fibers), while woolen is more rustic. This will save me a lot of headache as well as trial and error. I have just started spinning using a Navajo type spindle and I was unsure that I was l on the right lines. This means, how many individual strands were used to form the thread. God Bless. October 2015 Loved the first video, and your video was brilliant, thank you so much. If youre really comfortable with doing a lot of math, making adjustments on the fly, and pulling out your work if you decide you dont like how it works, then feel free to experiment with a yarn of a different gauge. Most people whove knit the hat have substituted yarns, but if they didnt use one with a halo like the silk-mohair, they sometimes found that the resulting fabric was too loose. Youll see two different yarns, one pale pink and one a creamy color. If you can only achieve one, though, choose accurate stitch gauge. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. The combing process removed all the shorter length hairs, leaving behind fibres of the same length, free from tangles. I once had it explained very simply: Woolen spun yarns are like bedhair in the morning - going every which way, and worsted spun are like hair after it's been combed. This helped me understand the difference and will help me make better choices when picking a yarn to knit certain patterns. Worsted yarns are spun with all the fibers aligned, making a smooth and dense yarn with more sheen and drape. The Vs of stockinette are sharp, the bumps of moss are plump and clear and the holes in the lace are wide open. If you substitute with a yarn that is drastically thicker or thinner than the recommended yarn, you wont be able to achieve the right gauge. When it comes to choosing between a woolen-spun yarn and a worsted-spun yarn, there really is no right or wrong answer. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. This is a new day for me. In all the photos, the left swatch of the pair is the worsted spun yarn and the right swatch is woolen spun. Are they going in parallel or perpendicular? After picking, the fiber goes through acarder, a machine with several rolling cylinders covered in metal teeth. Please refer to Blacker Yarns blog for an explanation: https://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/blog/woollen-and-worsted-spun-yarns-thoughts-wovember#:~:text=A%20woollen%20spun%20yarn%20will,high%20proportion%20of%20short%20fibre. A woolen yarns loose, lofty structure traps and holds air, making it warm and light, but the air between the fibers allows them to abrade quicker. Compared to woolens, worsted wool fabrics are brushed in two directions with special brushes. Case in point, hobby lobbys I love this yarn and their soft secret are both worsted, but one is 4 ply and the other 3 ply. Yeah, were talking that level of soft. Use top to spin semi worsted. It does however produce a lot of waste fibres (though those can still be carded for a more textured yarn). I knit swatches of all four yarns in stockinette, moss stitch, and a simple lace stitch, and took close-up comparison photos of the worsted and woolen yarns overlapping. Ill be referring back to it next time Im looking for yarn for a specific project. You can also go to the (Ravelry link) yarn ideas tab to see what yarns other people have substituted. The packing-in of the fiber as worsted yarn is made allows the fibers to protect each other for longer wear and less pilling. September 2016 November 2015 Both types require different fiber preparation on spinning techniques. It had a lacy yoke, short sleeves, and a bit of swing at the hem. September 2021 Spinningwithapurpose Appreciate the double check. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. Woolen yarn is less durable as compared to worsted yarn which may last longer. Its easier to just add more rows than to recalculate the width of a garment. The photos were such a vivid illustration of the difference between these two types of drafting and their results for your knitting. Extremely helpful! We consider it one of the finest worsted weight yarns out there. While the definitions of woollen and worsted yarns can be debated, each style of yarn has a very distinct physical appearance when knitted, crocheted, or woven into cloth. Try Ravelry and yarnsub.com, or phone the manufacturer (or ask your LYS owner to). Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Holland & Sherry98% SUPER 100'S WORSTED 2% LYCRA 2.46 YDS X 62" 159648 at the best online prices at eBay! You've got the woolen spun vs worsted spun reversed. Depending on their knowledge of spinning and yarns, it gets a bit tricky to articulate sometimes. Todays topic is woolen and worsted drafted yarns. 5 sts / inch on size US 7. Sometimes, even after all that, you still might not be sure whether the yarn you want to substitute will work for your project, check out other peoples projects. Theyre lofty yarns, so they make lightweight, absorbent fabrics, Elsa Hallowell says, which feel cooler when its warm and very cozy when its cold. www.wool-clothing.com, Content: 100% pure virgin wool Put-Up: 170yd [155 m]/1 3/4 oz [50 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash gently in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 24 sts = 4 (10cm) on sizes 35 (3.253.75mm) needles, Flywheel is a sportweight version of Harrisvilles well-loved Watershed. The fibers of a worsted-spun yarn are first straightened and then oriented in the same direction, making the yarn smooth and shiny, which gives your knitted fabric lots of stitch definition. Other linen yarns are wet spun linen and dry spun linen. It was a cotton-acrylic blend that was great for items that will get heavy use. This carded wool from the initial fiber preparation is prepared further in a worsted-style through combing. September 2018 Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn. Since it doesn't have air, it does not tend to be "fuzzy". September 2022 If you're looking for something that's super warm but light, a woolen spun may be better. The difference between woolen and the worsted yarn is that woolen yarn is spun by carding fibers. In this installment of our Foundations series, we explain the differences between how our woolen-spun and worsted-spun yarn families are produced, as well as describe the different kinds of fabrics one can achieve with either kind of yarn. Thats especially true if youre knitting a small, close-fitting garment like a sock or mitt. There is a great site called yarnsub which compares most if not all of these elements and suggests alternatives. One way is controlled; twist is brought to the fiber like a gift. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. They are also stronger, more durable, and less prone to pilling. Instead of carding the fibres they're combed. A little history on worsted wool. A 100% wool sweater will look different from a sweater made from linen or bamboo fiber. An alternative to spinning top worsted is to spin it semi worsted. Please note: PHONE: 1-208-452-4948 This is extra work youre asking them to undertake, and knitting patterns are already underpriced. The way a yarn is spun - worsted vs. woolen - also determines how much fiber is used per yard. This is the fun part about being a knitter who knows their yarn; its all up to you. Eg: tweed. Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy is the yarn that ran out when you were an inch from the finish. Beautiful fibre you'll love to work with. Woollen yarns (upper) have a softer, more diffuse look whereas worsted yarns (lower) make very distinct stitch patterns. To help you do that, Ive written out this guide to things you should consider before choosing a new yarn for your project. The difference between Woolen Spun and Worsted Spun. I guess I thought it referred to the ply, like 4-ply. Sometimes, those individual strings are then twisted together to form a stronger, denser yarn. Oh great now Im going to spend all day weeping for Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy and wondering what kind of yarn he was. I won't give you all the details, but before finishing there was already a significant difference in diameter; the worsted (dark) measured as 17 WPI, while the woolen (light) measured as 12 WPI. To check your gauge, cast on 5-10 stitches more than what the pattern says will give you 4. Thanks. This was a great post. This definitely affects your choice for a project that will be steeked, but also for fair isle or intarsia colourwork where the woolen spun will fill in the gaps between stitches of different colours. January 2020 Ive used it on a lot of projects since then. Miss Babs has an orderly line. In colorwork, the edge that gives a worsted yarn great stitch definition also makes colors standapart, while woolen drafted yarns create softness and blur between colors. Taking the spinning seminar from Cecilia Quinn I learned the difference between worsted and woolen is in the way the fibers were treated and spun. October 2014 Shelter is textured, and Arbor is smooth as silk. December 2018 Another essential characteristic of woolen-spun yarns, according to Respect the Spindle by Abby Franquemont, is that twist is allowed to play an active role in drafting the fiber drafting refers to when the fiber is pulled slightly to open up and lengthen the fiber structure before being twisted. These carded strands are lofty, lightweight, and trap a lot of air. The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. Woolen spun yarns are in the production of sweaters, carpets, tweeds. Great article! However, though the staple length of the wool is short the yarn is strong over the length of a single knit or purl stitch, so the fabric worked in these yarns will be cohesive and strong. Now I can shop for yarn with a little more knowledge. SpoinnersAdvent So how do you spin yarn to be either worsted or woolen? Worsted yarn = worsted prep + worsted spin Semi worsted = woolen prep + worsted spin Woolen = woolen prep + woolen spin Semi woolen = worsted prep + woolen spin Examples of worsted spinning would be short forward and short backward drafting. The yarn is spun using the woolen process. These are actually a scaled down version of the historical combs, but having handled a pair I can tell you that they're still seriously heavy to handle. Yours has been my favorite series to date Im learning so much and feel like I can make better choices! Combing was traditionally done on large heavy combs, and was done by men. Jill, I am a newbie to crochet and knitting, so this information is wonderful! The difference between these two is not as clear at first glance. 3.5 oz ball / yards 245. knitting gauge: 5 stitches / inch on US 7. hand wash cold / lay flat to dry. Woolen spun yarns will bloom more after washing and are lighter and airier. If the ratios are close, youre more likely to have a good match for substitution. I made a sweater that is just too heavy and was hoping to be able to make it in a lighter weight yarn. Carding, and the rolling in to a rolag creates a spiral of wool fibres wrapping round the tube. Want a refresher on the difference between worsted-spun and woolen spun yarns? Absolutely excellent article and the illustrations are superb and helpful. You can read more about the ranges of WPI for each yarn weight on the Craft Yarn Councils website. Cheers and Thanks. In side-by-side comparison of worsted and woolen yarns with the same fiber and yarn structure, the worsted yarn is more durable, less warm, and heavier than a woolen yarn. Worsted yarn is a smooth and compact yarn that is spun from long staple fibers. I dont believe a label gives this info. Theyre the same weight, but theyre not made the same way. March 2021 Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. The smoothness of the yarn means that the stitches knit from them sing proudly and have excellent definition, while the compactness of the yarn contributes to fabrics with greater drape. Maurice Brassard Cotton Computer Color Numbers. But it made a noticeable difference to the feel of the swatch in my hand. Jo, You have a real gift. February 2021 The fiber is compressed and smoothed, and air is squeezed out as the twist is applied to the fiber. If you are unsure or curious about the outcome of a particular stitch pattern, swatch it. The fibers in stitches knit from woolen-spun yarn seem to literally bloom into the space theyre given. Top: Worsted spun shows more stitch definition Bottom: Woolen spun soft bouncy yarn without stitch definition Like cousins, woolen and worsted yarns have the same genetic profile, but look and act completely different from one another. Yarn substitution is where you use a different yarn from the yarn recommended by the designer who wrote the pattern youre following. from Brown Sheep Company. The yarn is less hairy than worsted yarns. Folks wait their turn to enter the booth and shop in a controlled way. May 2014 Advent To measure WPI, take out a ruler and an item of uniform thickness that you can wrap your yarn around. You cracked the egg for me.I want to read more of your writing. The yarn surface is brighter and cleaner. (Theres a method to this madness, we promise!). In tropical-weight worsteds, the use of tightly spun, straightened wool combined with a looser weave permits air to flow through the fabric. The distinctions between these has been a mystery to me until now. Worsted yarns are spun with all the fibers aligned, making a smooth and dense yarn with more sheen and drape. Different fibers behave in different ways. www.harrisville.com, Content: 100% pure wool Put-Up: 215 yd [196 m]/4 oz [113 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash with mild soap in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 17 sts = 4 (10cm) on size 8 (5 mm) needles, Our mill has been in production on the same location for 158 years, so we do have some history in producing woolen-spun yarn, says John Little of Briggs & Little Woolen Mills. Ok, first up lets look at how the fibres are running in to the yarn. Rhinebeck September 2020 Trust me, they r super different in thickness. Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. I really appreciate you using Tom Hardy as an analogy. Chickens May 2017 This approach makes for a lofty, lightweight yarn that traps warmth. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. Prepare to fiddle with needle sizes and maybe make a math adjustment or two if your chosen yarn doesnt quite match the gauge in the pattern. The dead giveaway of the woolen-ness of Empire is the blip of fiber sticking out. By clicking Accept, you consent to the use of ALL the cookies. A great big AHA! Moment for me! Woollen yarns are used for flannel, tweed, melton, knitwear and felt. When youre choosing a substitute yarn, try to get one with a similar fiber content so your end result has the same fabric characteristics. Any suggestions? Categories Knitting Design, Knitting Tips and Tricks, Home The Knitters Guide to Yarn Substitution, Stretch Into a Cozy Fall Wardrobe with the Pandiculation Cowl, Yarn Substitution for the Knit Sweater: A Designers Perspective. I needed to understand these concepts and to have them revealed in just this way. That meant the hat could be knit at a much looser gauge than I would normally use for a fingering + lace combo. Great article and most helpful. Because the fibers are parallel, worsted spun yarns are denser and less airy than woolen spun. May 2021 August 2015 You can see the difference when its wound into a ball, and in the strand. Within woollen preparation the fibre is spun straight . Spin: Worsted or Woolen How a yarn is spun affects a yarn's weight and crimp. Perfect. Time to read it again, more closely! Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors. The worsted yarn spinner uses wool fibres which have been combed and are of a certain length, that is, about 2 inches or more. January 2021 Does it make that much difference to your gauge? Woolen spun and worsted spun are references to the way the yarn is actually spun in the spinning process. Thank you so much Katie. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. Airy and soft, but fragile (because of the shorter staple and looser twist?). Hairs are aligned to be parallel, instead of being rolled up to perpendicular to the direction of the yarn. Woolen spinning also works best on wool with shorter staple lengths, such that if you pull on the yarn from several inches away, the yarn can indeed break. I actually own a mini mill that creates semi-worsted yarns. Those air pockets, combined with the jumbled state of the fibers, also make woolen-spun yarns amazingly adaptable to a wide range of needle sizes and gauges. Worsted wool fabric is typically used in the making of tailored garments such as suits, as opposed to woollen wool, which is used for knitted items such as sweaters. What you do need is to know what youre doing if you plan to change things up. May 2016 Brilliant exposition, Katie! The problem is that theyre not as durable as multi-ply yarn. https://garmentmerchendising.com/category/fiber/. Closed Saturdays, Sundays and US Holidays, 2015- 2023 Lunatic Fringe Yarns - All Rights Reserved December 2013 They are both delightful, yet different. The other style invites the twist into the fiber, it lets the twist zip into the fiber with little to no control; twist is just tossed at the fiber. The Classic British Wool yarn line is available in four thicknesses and fifteen heathered colorways. However, there are differences between worsted weight yarns and woolen yarns as well. This is why many stranded colorwork knitters prefer to use woolen-spun yarns; because of their bloom, different colors end up blending together at the edges for a painterly effect. Very well spot on! Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. This is because the fibers (compressed together in all directions, without combing) adhere more strongly to each other, This is a lightweight fabric, and, especially when knitted using Fair Isle technique, will long outlast a worsted spun garment. The primary reason for this is that the wool yarn normally used for these fabrics was produced using a special "worsted" spinning technique that better aligns the fibers. I did not know this was the difference in certain types of yarn. Copyright 2023 A Bee In The Bonnet | Bamboo on Trellis Framework by Mediavine, This site uses cookies to improve its performance and to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. Woolen yarns are good for products like tweeds, while worsted yarns are best for smooth fine gaberdines. I have been looking for something to help determine how best to substitute yarn. January 2023 Be respectful. November 2021 They may not be able to get to yours quickly, or even at all. Thanks for the good explanation. Woollen spun woven fabrics are thicker and heavier and used mostly for outerwear. The difference in these two yarns are mainly due to two factors; (1) the nature or class of wool used; and (2) the method of preparing and spinning the fibres into yarn. What is the Difference Between Worsted and Woolen Spun Yarns? I am so excited to have found this article today. 4.5 sts / inch on size US 8. Most people define semi-worsted as spinning worsted using carded fibers while spinning the way you would for worsted yarn. Semi-woolen is when combed fibers are spun in a way where the twist enters the fibers, usually when spinning from the fold. November 2017 Be sure not to violate boundaries, too. This was a grat posting. I hope this will help you skip some of the hiccups! I feel like I can make better yarn/pattern matches and explain these variables to others who want me to knit for them and their only concern is color. Usually with terms like Natural fibers will be easier to block than acrylics (which can be killed with steam, but otherwise just are what they are). This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. Take a look at the picture in this section. The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. This is because the combed fibers, lacking air pockets, can more readily spin up into a compact, dense, and sturdy yarn. Bonus points for great pictures to make everything visual and extra clear. Woolen yarns are the equivalent of cotton carded yarns, and worsted yarns are the wool equivalent of combed cotton yarns, they get the extra process to make them higher quality. I have saved this post as I will go over it again and again. This can get a bit tricky if youre substituting because you have a fiber allergy. Well-twisted yarn spun of long-staple wool which has been combed to lay the fibers parallel, used for carpets, cloth, hosiery, gloves, and the like. To read the applicable privacy policy, please. As with our woolen-spun yarns, fiber prepared for worsted-spun yarn is first scoured and then carded. Worsted is about both how you spin and how you (or your supplier) prep. After being spun into yarn, our worsted-spun yarns are dyed in the skein. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. Wool is warm and lightweight and takes dyes well. - From the online magazine Knitter's Review, by Clara Parkes. Unfortunately you cant tell from the ballband unless the manufacturer has included that information. Original Yarns Over at Into the Whirled, the people come from all directions into the booth in a hullabaloo of shopping, woolen style. Sign up for our email list and get 10% off your next order in the MDK Shop! It's much faster to spin wool because the fibres are not tidied up before you begin spinning. February 2017 December 2017 To really make sure you stand the best chance of getting the right gauge, you need to check your new yarns put up and/or WPI. Knit using the same needles and in the same style that youll be knitting the garment (i.e., flat or in the round). Its knit using one strand of fingering-weight wool yarn and one strand of lace-weight silk-mohair yarn. Worsted-spun yarns are dense and strong. When a yarn is spun from a pile of fibers into a string, its turned a little bit as its stretched out to make a tubular shape. February 2020 If Im knitting a gansey to last more than a few years, and want fantastic, crisp stitch definition, Ill choose a worsted spun yarn. All Rights Reserved. Worsted noun. Yarns with multiple strands of fiber plied together are very sturdy. And you explained the difference between woolen vs worsted very well!! On the other hand, worsted yarn is spun by combing fibers. That doesnt happen when fiber is being compressed and smoothed while it becomes a worsted drafted yarn; that happens when the twist limbos into the fiber. It might be worth sacrificing a bit of cable definition to get a lighter, cozier feeling sweater. On Instagram, just type #ProfiteroleHat into the search bar, and check out the other versions people have posted. AC Business Ventures LLC, DBA Nitro Knitters. It resulted in a hat that was light as a cloud but still structurally sound and very warm. NOW I KNOW. February 2019 Ive put off learning more about the structure and the why and have just let myself be lead around MLYS making choices that just add to the stash but may not be right for the intended project.
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